Fine or fancy. Combing through forgotten fabrics of the past is what I do. Eventually you get a sense of what is well made, and worth the purchase. Sometimes the difference is very obvious.
Whether it's pillowcases, tea towels, tablecloths, hankies --it doesn't matter what. "They" just don't make them with the same quality linen, cotton, or fabric as they used decades ago. Similar items made today are mass produced, and of lesser quality. The quality of older fabrics can not easily be matched today, because they were more labor-intensive.
Use your finest linen items today, rather than saving them for "some day" that may never come.
Gypsy Rosalie's Trousseau is located in South Eastern Pennsylvania.